Childhood Memories & Cheap Eats in Rome

The next part of our Italian dream vacation took us to Rome via Trenitalia (government run trains). The seats on Trenitalia were worn out, and the cars overall looked much older than the Italo trains. The ride to Rome from Venice wasn’t as scenic as the ride to Venice from Rome where we had passed the rolling hills of Tuscany. The Roma Termini station is huge, but not as scary as most online forums make it out to be in terms of thieves stealing your luggage, just like any other big train station keep an eye on your belongings, and you should be fine. 

Tip: If you have a Trenitalia eticket, you do not have to validate it in one of the machines at the train station. When booking Trenitalia tickets online, make sure that you pick the right time (24 hour) for the train because the website automatically defaults to the time of your local destination.

We were in Rome for 5 nights and made it the base for our day trips to Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast. The hotel we chose was Relais Trevi 95, a small, modern boutique hotel within two blocks of the Trevi Fountain and most other attractions. Breakfast options at the hotel were room service (much more comfortable) or at the terrace of their sister hotel Relais Fontana di Trevi a block away. We took the Red Line metro from Roma Termini to the Barberini stop, and the hotel directions had us walking for awhile with luggage in tow. We opted for their car service on the return trip which costs slightly more than a taxi, I would recommend this on the way there too, so you don’t have to walk with luggage through the cobblestone streets. There is a also a small church (facing the Trevi fountain, walk left towards the large alley with restaurants and turn left again; the church is right before the Visitors Center) near the hotel which is open late, a quick visit on the way to the Pantheon or Piazza Navona will give you a much needed relaxing break, away from the hustle and bustle of the tourists and street hawkers.

Fontana del Tritone (Piazza Barberini)

Being in Rome brought back memories of my trip there with my Grandpa when I was a little kid. Rome was the first place, Grandpa and I had traveled together outside of India which was part of a month long Europe tour before he dropped us off to the United States. As I walked to the Trevi Fountain, surrounded by scaffolding (the fountain is under going restoration which may not be complete until 2016) the first night, I remembered standing there with Grandpa decades ago and throwing coins in the fountain hoping to return back together. Though my Grandpa passed away many years ago, I still felt his presence and was glad that at least one of us was able to make the journey back to where we first started our Europe travels together.

Trevi Fountain (under restoration)

The tour we took with Grandpa decades ago was part of an organized tour group, and even though some meals were included, some were not. I remember how expensive the food was in the heart of Rome even back then. So, this time, before I left for Italy I did an extensive search for the best cheap eats near the tourist center of Rome. Here are some of my recommendations. 

For Pasta

Pastifico – 8 Via della Croce, near the Spanish Steps. Serves two types of pasta (with free wine if you eat inside), one vegetarian and one non-vegetarian for 4 € in a mostly standing room shop. Get there around 12:45 to avoid the big line. My favorite pasta of the day was with pesto, potatoes, and long beans.

Pasta Imperiale – 160 Via dei Coronari, near the Piazza Navona. You choose the pasta and the sauce for 5 €, and it’s handmade right in front of you. Small restaurant with a few tables. My favorite pasta was gnocchi with pesto.

For Snacks

Forno Campo de’Fiori: 22 Vicolo del Gallo 14, near the Campo de’Fiori. Known for their Pizza Bianco (white pizza), but the red one tastes pretty good too. This little shop has foccacia and sandwiches also. The prices are about 2.50 € to 3 € depending on the size of the pizza. Best to go in the daytime or afternoon, as they tend to run out of food early evening. 

For Tiramisu

Bar Pompi – Via Della Croce, near the Spanish Steps. They have a few different flavors of tiramisu including strawberry, pistachio, and my favorite the original at 4 € a slice. The tiramisu comes in a little box with a spoon for takeout. The pastry shop also has other desserts.

For Gelato

Gelataria Valentino  – 96 Via Del Lavatore, right next door to the hotel and near Trevi Fountain. They have a good variety of gelato flavors at 2.5 € for a single scoop, my favorite was the amaretto.

Fatamorgana – 10 Via Laurina, near the Spanish Steps. I don’t remember the pricing, but it wasn’t too much more than Gelataria Valentino. They have many artisan gelato flavors including an interesting combination of basil, walnuts, and honey.

For Groceries

Despar Market – Several locations in Rome, including one down the street from the hotel near Trevi Fountain.

Outdoor Festivals with Food

Other than the traditional shops and grocery stores, Rome also has a lot of outdoor festivals that include some food stalls. You can ask your hotel’s front desk or do a little research online before your trip. During out trip, there was a festival near Castel Sant’Angelo. I remember eating the tastiest Fiorri di Zucca Fritti (fried zuchhini flower blossoms) with a Peroni beer as I sat under the trees watching the tourists and locals walk about the festival grounds.